mercoledì 19 giugno 2013

Pummaroò&Places: L(i)ove from Nice!

This place is not just a place but I feel like home here!

I have my favorite fish seller, Richard,  that provides me the best fish for a special price! He always welcomes me with a sunny: "Bonjour Elvira, comment allez vous?" He is not only so kind but very charming too. You can find him in Place St François every morning till noon, except Monday!

I love having breakfast at "Le Pain Quotidien" (, now they changed the name into Le pain à table. They have the best fruit bread and granola every tasted and very good jams, the fig one is  incomparable! The owner has nice big moustaches and the manager is a very funny guy, we love speaking about football. When I arrive,  I have my Equipe newspaper on the table and when I leave, he always tells me:"Come on, tell me the truth, you are not a lawyer". Le Pain Quotidien is at the beginning of Cours Saleya/rue St François de Paule.

If you wanna stop for a quirky pause in the Old Town market, go Chez Theresa, she will serve you the typical Socca, a thin, flat cake made from chickpea flour and olive oil while the best Socca is served by Pipo (13, rue Bavastro).


You should try other good specialities: the Niçoise salad (anchovies, shallots, red peppers, tuna, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, cucumber, black olives), Pissaladière (pizza dough topped with onions, anchovies, black olives ), Pan bagnat (big white sandwich with the Niçoise salad), tourte de blette (Swiss chard pie, salty or sweet), the Niçoise Daube (Southern French beef stew), Farcis (Veggies - tomatoes, eggplant, and courgettes- hollowed out and stuffed with ground meat, garlic, and bread crumbs) and do not forget to toast with a local cold rosé wine.

When I need a cuddly moment, I go to Les Causeries de Blandine (8, rue du Pont-Vieux, It's impossible to resist to their homemade gourmandises. A lot of different homemade cakes and a huge variety of tea and coffee .

When It's time to dine out, It's Le Bistrot d'Antoine or Le Comptoir du Marché. They belong to the same owner. Both restaurants have not a lot of tables so the reservation is required and the prices are really good for the quality and the service offered.

Le Bistrot d'Antoine (27, rue de la Préfecture) is in the Old Town.
They have French food with a fresh touch of cookery geniality. I recommend the scallops and their magret de canard. 

Le Comptoir du marché (8, rue du Marché) is in the Old Town too. It is more cozy and homey than Le Bistrot. There is an open kitchen and the staff is very kind, they explain the menu as a wonderful poetry. I recommend the pork cheeks, the foie gras and the sea snails salad and  the scallops with crunchy veggies surely.

I love French food but I am Neapolitan, I need to eat Pizza. If you wanna taste a real Neapolitan pizza, stop at Les Amoureux (
Monica and Ivan, the owners, have a cozy pizzeria behind the port (46, Boulevard Stalingrad). Be sure to book in advance since the place is always crowded. Try also the wonderful dessert, called Pastiera and their good strong Italian coffee. At the end of your dinner Ivan will be pleased to offer you a delicious Limoncello. Les Amoureux is open from Tuesday to Saturday only for dinner from 19:30.


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